done answered all that, skip below.
----------
Is there a good cheap floor shifter out there?

Something with gates to shift from 1-2-3 as you wish with kinda of positive clicks so you know where your at but not going into N, R or P by accident?

easy hook up would be nice too.

Years ago, there were a few for both stick and automatic, ones like EELCO, and the famous Hurst "Mystery Shifter", which was less than affectionately called the "Miserable Shifter".

As crazy as this sounds, try googling the web site for Honest Charlie, in Chattanooga,Tennessee, they used to carry all kinds of wierd and bizarre stuff.

anyone ever use a hurst v-matic 2

Got an offer to get one cheap but if they suck.....

http://www.truckaddons.com/images02/speedperformance/transmission/hurst/hurst_vmatic2.jpg

They feel very much like the Megashifter from B&M.

Not bad. I fitted one to my firebird console a few years ago.

Can I still leave the colum hooked up but remove the big arm n still have it work?

Like the 79 camaro I had once it has a floor shifter stock but the colum neck still moved.

I know it a wagon but parts like that can be moved from car to car. Like the GSX hood tach I want for Xmas ;)



.

Well Im gonna take it for $40 shipped, cost new is $200+ but he don't have the console for it.

That sucker is $42 alone, fur just the plastic shell

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HUU-1298554


might hafta think outside the box here.

You will have to do some clearancing on your column to make that setup work. The 70s Firebirds do that so that they can use the same neutral start switch as column shift cars. You have to break the shifter lock to allow it to move freely.

Yea the good deal is still gonna cost me.

I thought, could be wrong that when you pull the arm back on the column you release the column lock.

So if you remove the pin for the arm, the lock part auto pops out and it turns free???

To icky out to go play with it now.

The one I'm getting is for a 2nd gen console car [why it cost over $200], not the uni mount $169 one. Not allot different but enough where I need some extra brackets n stuff for the cable. And maybe a cable if dude can't find one. Suppose to use the stock 2nd gen cable on that one.

Looks like I'm not so far out here. Got the direction for both and you can see they both are the same, both have the square mounting flange. The Aro one just uses some risers pads.

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/v2uni.jpg

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/v2aro.jpg


So the direction to locate the hole for the uni will still work.

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/v2unimount.jpg

Though to be honest I don't want the shifter that low. Id like it raised up. Dunno if Im getting them riser brackets or not.

Though id figure to locate the hole proper I could just cut a template like they show for the uni, tape that to the shifter then shoot a laser sight dow the center to relocate the cable hole with it mounted higher?

[cause the Aro direction just tell where to put the new hole in relation to the old one.]

I assume it just needs the proper angle to function right?

Sound, sound?

I also need to find or make these two brackets.

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/v2unibracket1.jpg

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/v2unibracket2.jpg

turned out he had the uni one not the 2nd gen one so I got the right cable and bracket for the trans pan.

I just need to make this bracket. Easy enough.

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/v2unibracket1.jpg

Now prepare yourself for an ugly mess, though I did get it sort of installed today. I cut long straps of 1 1/2 wide 1/8in thick steel straps for the other side, run the full length on each side. Last thing I want is to yank the bolts through the floor.

Used some long carriage bolts and of course after cutting a section of the seat away. Though I wanted to keep the stock armrest.

I ended up mounting it on an angle with some pieces of pipe for spacers in the back. That way when it goes into 1st the sucker isn't darn near touching the floor. So now when I put it in 1st gear I can still keep my arm comfy on the arm rest.

Other wise id have to flip it up to get it into 1st.

Though I have not done the cable hole or routing yet.

I plan on finishing it off with a 2nd gen console minus its rear arm rest storage section.

Should look nice once done.
Though function comes first.

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/hurstV591.jpg

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/hurstV594.jpg

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/hurstV592.jpg

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/hurstV596.jpg

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/hurstV597.jpg

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/hurstV600.jpg

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/hurstV601.jpg

Though it was more of a butcher job as I could not get the seat out. Sucker had 6 bolt down spots instead of the usualy 4, got the 4 off but the last two you couldn't get even a 1/4 turn.

So I just jumped on it till it bent back real far and worked on it like that. Had to cut more foam out and vinyl then I wanted so it wouldn't get caught up in the cut off too and smell real bad.

Man that shifter is awesome, still not hooked up but just sittin in the car bangin gears in ratchet mode is fun, is gonna be fun.

Ok yep I was right. All ya gotta do is knock out the pin and take the lever off [ watch it fall off] and the column turns free when key is on, key lock works, It only starts in P & N, and the gear selector position still works on the dash.

Was a royal PITA doing fine adjustments. Got it all hooked up and spent a good 3-4 hrs just trying to get all the gears right. Then finally got it to go through all 3 gears in ratchet mode fine now [which is the key part I wanted] As in normal mode it does pull back a bit farther so it grabs 1st always.
But I had trouble adjusting for ratchet mode as R would end up coming in half way out of P or coming back up it would still be D going in the N spot.

Was not fun getting up and down under the car. Put it one click forward then make sure it in the right ger on the trans. Did end up making my own trans arm. First hole was right in line but I made a 2nd hole a tad higher and closer to the edge to help adjust it easier. Basically just moving the hole closer in park. The trans bracket that holds the cable wasn't even close to right. Said to use the two middle bolts for it but not even close. Two back were to far. Had to drill a new hole in it and it just bolted down with one. It can't move or anything and will be just fine. [was gonna make a new one but its on there good] Waiting on the cabel hole grommet and the center console. Gonna look nice once done. Was able to clean up my hack job on the seat pretty good. Not like the seats are all that great n e ways.

Still need to go out and play tomorrow. I gotta bump the steering column a tad when going into R coming up from N but its at least in it right click spot and when shoved into P it works right every time and goes right into R when coming out of P.
I can deal with R being a tad funky. Long as it shifts right in ratchet mode Im fine.

.

Does anyone have any idea how fun it is to have a floor shifter, let along a dual pattern one???

Oh man its so cool.

Though the Hurst aluminum T handle is to cool AKA cold. Like holding onto a block of ice. Gonna hafta re-think that one.

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/hurstV603.jpg

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/hurstV608.jpg

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/hurstV617.jpg

Well here it is almost done. Need to find a trim ring and scrub the thing down. Tried once with some windex but it had no effect on 20 years of junk yard dirt.

http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/hurstV631.jpg

OK so far I hate that boot. It really stiffin's up the action and take some of the feel out. I find myself struggling more with where Im at, gear wise.
The thing has gotta go.

Need to find a regular stick shift boot.

Can't believe its been 2 years, did eventually find a regular 2nd gen aro/bird shifter plate.

Though the gear letters didn't line up, had
Cullan Bryant make my up a customs Hurst inlays for it.bryant-design@comcast.net


http://viragotech.com/hurstv2/Hurstinlay2.jpg