There is a topic posted by eDUBz, Electronic Ignitions, regarding a system for his car,
"Need one for my cal gs. Where can it be found.
There are a few responses, including one with my business recommended.
FYI, I do conversions for points distributors, they do NOT appear historically correct, they ARE some of the best you can obtain. My info is www.davessmallbodyheis.com
for the business web site, and contact info there of email@example.com
The PerTronix units, all of them, are subject to failure if not worked correctly, and from physical failures such as weights being thrown off the trigger ring. The ONLY PerTronix unit to consider is the first Ignitor 1, but, there are things you will need to do to keep it running, such as to epoxy the magnets into place on the trigger wheel, RUN THE STOCK ballast resistor or resistor wire, stock coil, stock spark plug wires, and, keep the spark plug gap to no more than .035, no matter what anyone else says, no matter the urban legends about their goodness.
PerTronix with rev limiter. This is the old Crane XRi units, but now, made in China, worse than when Crane vended them. In the first Crane units, the rev limiter would degrade, causing rev limits to decrease all the way down to the lower rev limit, and making the units junk. Later ones that were supposedly 'fixed' still had other problems. PerTronix is well known for 'revising' their own products into making them worse, and I have NO illusions they did anything with the Crane system to make it any better, they just bought it to one, keep it off the market made by others, and two, profit margin.
NOTE: I remove more PerTronix Ignitors than any other make combined, all Ignitors, 1, 11, 111, LS. To my knowledge, I have removed only three (3) of them that were the first ones installed in the distributors I converted to my systems, the rest, all replacement Ignitors for ones that failed previously.
Breakerless, well, what can be said good for a system that uses coil power to operate on, nothing. Even the PerTronix uses a separate power chip to operate on, but not the breakerless. IF you need a dead stock replacement, then, as long as you keep EVERYTHING else stock, and don't try to force this system, it should work for you. Try to make it a performance system, it'll turn to instant junk.
Mallory Uni-Lite. These systems are fairly bullet-proof, IF parameters are kept and observed. The system MUST be resisted, they do not live when full battery voltage is used. Also, they need extra resistance than a stock points system uses. With these, I set them up thus: Stock coil, with stock ballast resistor or resistor wire (1.80 ohm rating) feeding the coil, as stock. Then, power wire from Uni-Lite goes to a MOPAR single balast resistor for their 12 volt points systems (0.60 ohm rating), then, power the MOPAR resistor off the positive side of the stock resisted coil. This method runs the coil at one resistance/current level, and the Uni-Lite at a lower resistance/current level. Leave the other items stock as well, spark plug wires, spark plug gaps, and this system will live a long life, and give great service. Total ohms resistance to the coil, 1.80, total ohms resistance to the Mallory Uni-Lite, 2.40.
A note on double resistance for the Uni-Lite. In the package with a new Uni-Lite, there was a MOPAR 0.60 resistor I mention above, to be used in feeding the Uni-Lite module, that most people ignore. In Mallory's instructions, they specify using a dry lantern battery to power up the Uni-Lite for testing on a distributor machine, out of the vehicle, battery voltages between 6.0 and 9.0. There is no reason to run a Uni-Lite with more volts than between 6.0 and 9.0, as this system isn't a performance system, it is a replacement system. Pumping up0 the voltage to one just fries them, LIGHTS OUT.
If I were doing a so-called "drop-in" system, I'd opt for the dual resistance, stock everything else, and Mallory Unilite system.
Ask questions if you have them, please.